What is Flat Towing?

Hitting the open road in an RV offers unparalleled freedom, but what happens when you want to explore a bustling city or a tight mountain pass? For many adventurers, the answer is what is flat towing. Also known as dinghy towing or four-down towing, this method involves attaching a passenger vehicle directly to the back of your motorhome. The towed car, or “toad,” rolls on all four of its own wheels, ready to be unhooked and driven at your destination. This guide is your complete resource for understanding everything about flat towing.

Flat towing is a popular choice for RVers because it simplifies life on the road. There’s no heavy dolly or trailer to store, manoeuvre, or maintain. You simply connect your car to the RV and go. However, it’s not as simple as just hooking up any vehicle and driving off. Understanding the mechanics, equipment, vehicle compatibility, and legal requirements is crucial for a safe and successful journey. From the essential base plates and tow bars to the critical supplemental braking systems, we will cover every component you need. We will also explore which cars are best suited for this method and which ones should be avoided.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through the entire process, from selecting the right vehicle to performing your first tow. We’ll compare flat towing to other methods like dolly and trailer towing, detail the necessary equipment, and provide a step-by-step setup guide. You’ll also learn about the legal aspects, safety checks, and maintenance routines that will keep you rolling smoothly across the country. Whether you’re a seasoned RVer looking to switch towing methods or a newcomer planning your first big trip, this article will provide the expert insights you need.

The Three Main Ways to Tow a Vehicle Behind an RV

When you decide to bring a smaller vehicle along on your RV adventures, you have three primary methods to choose from: flat towing, dolly towing, and trailer towing. Each has its own set of advantages, disadvantages, and specific requirements. Understanding the differences is the first step in deciding which method best fits your RV, your tow vehicle, and your travel style.

Flat Towing (Four-Down)

Flat towing is the process of towing a vehicle with all four of its wheels on the ground. The vehicle, often called a “toad” or “dinghy,” is connected to the RV using a specialized tow bar.

• How it Works: A base plate is installed on the front frame of the toad, providing a secure attachment point for the tow bar. The tow bar connects the toad to the RV’s hitch receiver. A supplemental braking system is also installed to help the toad brake in sync with the motorhome, and safety cables provide a backup connection.
• Pros: The biggest advantage is convenience. There is no extra trailer or dolly to register, insure, or store at a campsite. Hooking and unhooking can be done relatively quickly once you are familiar with the process. It’s a lightweight solution compared to carrying a car on a full trailer.
• Cons: Not all vehicles can be flat towed without modification. It can cause wear and tear on the toad’s tires and drivetrain components if not done correctly. The initial setup cost for the tow bar, base plate, and braking system can be significant.

Dolly Towing (Two-Down)

Dolly towing involves placing the front two wheels of the vehicle onto a small, two-wheeled trailer called a tow dolly. The rear wheels of the vehicle remain on the ground. This method is common for front-wheel-drive vehicles.

• How it Works: You drive the front wheels of your car up onto the dolly’s ramps and secure them with straps. The dolly itself is connected to the RV’s hitch.
• Pros: A tow dolly can be used with a wider range of vehicles than flat towing, especially front-wheel-drive cars that cannot be flat towed. It prevents wear on the towed vehicle’s transmission and drive components.
• Cons: The dolly is another piece of equipment you must store at your campsite, which can be cumbersome. You also have to register and maintain the dolly in many jurisdictions. Backing up with a car on a tow dolly is extremely difficult, if not impossible, for most drivers. It also adds weight compared to a simple tow bar.
  heavy-duty straps or chains. The trailer is then hitched to the RV.
• Pros: This is the most versatile method, as it can be used to tow any vehicle, regardless of its drivetrain (FWD, RWD, AWD, 4WD). It puts zero wear and tear on the### Trailer Towing (Four-Up)

Trailer towing involves placing the entire vehicle onto a flatbed or enclosed trailer. All four wheels of the towed vehicle are off the ground.

• How it Works: The vehicle is driven or winched onto the trailer and secured at all four corners with towed vehicle’s tires or mechanical systems. It is also the easiest method for backing up, as a trailer behaves more predictably than a dolly or flat-towed car.
• Cons: Trailers are heavy, which significantly reduces your RV’s overall towing capacity and fuel efficiency. They are also the most expensive option. Storing a large trailer at a campsite can be a major challenge, with many parks lacking the space or charging extra fees.

Comparison of Towing Methods

Feature	Flat Towing (Four-Down)	Dolly Towing (Two-Down)	Trailer Towing (Four-Up)
Convenience	Highest (no extra equipment to store)	Medium (dolly requires storage)	Lowest (trailer requires significant storage)
Vehicle Compatibility	Limited to specific models	Good for most FWD vehicles	Compatible with any vehicle
Initial Cost	High (base plate, tow bar, braking system)	Medium (dolly cost)	Highest (trailer cost)
Wear on Towed Vehicle	Wear on tires, some drivetrain components	Wear on rear tires only	No wear on towed vehicle
Manoeuvrability	Cannot be backed up	Extremely difficult to back up	Easiest to back up
Added Weight	Lowest	Medium	Highest
Setup Time	Quick once learned	Moderate	Longest
Storage at Campsite	Easiest (just the car)	Difficult (dolly is bulky)	Most difficult (trailer is very large)

Choosing the right method depends on your priorities. If maximum convenience and minimal storage hassle are your goals, and you have or are willing to buy a compatible vehicle, flat towing is often the best choice.

Is Your Vehicle Suitable for Flat Towing?

This is the most critical question you must answer before investing in any equipment. Not all vehicles are designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Towing an incompatible vehicle can lead to catastrophic transmission damage within just a few kilometres. The determining factor is how the vehicle’s transmission and drivetrain are lubricated.

Why Drivetrain Matters

In many automatic transmission vehicles, the transmission’s internal lubrication pump is driven by the engine. When you flat tow a car, the engine is off, but the wheels are turning. This turns the output shaft of the transmission. Without the engine running, the lubrication pump isn’t working, and critical components can overheat and fail due to a lack of lubrication.

This is why you must consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual. The manufacturer is the ultimate authority on whether a car can be flat towed. Look for a section titled “Recreational Towing,” “Towing Your Vehicle,” or “Dinghy Towing.” The manual will provide explicit instructions, or a stern warning against it. Do not rely on advice from a dealer, a friend, or an online forum alone—always verify with the official owner’s manual for your specific year, make, and model.

Vehicle Types and Their Flat Towing Potential

Let’s break down the general suitability of different vehicle types.

Automatic Transmission Vehicles

Most modern automatic transmission vehicles, especially front-wheel-drive sedans and crossovers, cannot be flat towed. Their integrated transaxles are not designed for it. However, some exceptions exist. Certain vehicles from manufacturers like Chevrolet, GMC, Ford, and Jeep are designed with recreational towing in mind. They often have a specific procedure to follow, which might involve running the engine for a few minutes at rest stops, shifting the transmission through gears in a particular sequence, or disconnecting the battery.

Manual Transmission Vehicles

Historically, manual transmission vehicles were the go-to choice for flat towing. In a traditional rear-wheel-drive manual car, placing the transmission in neutral effectively disconnects the engine from the wheels. The output shaft still spins, but because it’s a simpler system with splash lubrication, it generally doesn’t cause damage. However, this is not a universal rule anymore. Always check the manual. Some modern manual transmissions may still have restrictions.

Four-Wheel Drive (4WD) and All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Vehicles

Many 4WD trucks and SUVs are excellent candidates for flat towing, but only if they have a specific feature: a transfer case with a true Neutral (N) position. When you shift the transfer case into neutral, you completely disconnect the front and rear driveshafts from the transmission. This means the wheels can spin freely without turning any part of the transmission. This is the ideal scenario for flat towing.

• How to Check for a True Neutral: The transfer case controls will often have settings like 2H (Two-Wheel Drive High), 4H (Four-Wheel Drive High), 4L (Four-Wheel Drive Low), and N (Neutral). The presence of this “N” is a strong indicator that the vehicle is flat-towable. The owner’s manual will confirm this and provide the procedure for shifting into and out of the transfer case neutral.
• AWD vs. 4WD: It’s important to distinguish between All-Wheel Drive (AWD) and Four-Wheel Drive (4WD). Most AWD systems are computer-controlled and do not have a manual transfer case with a neutral position. As a result, the vast majority of AWD vehicles cannot be flat towed. Towing an AWD vehicle can cause severe damage to the centre differential and transmission.

Electric Vehicles (EVs) and Hybrids

As a general rule, almost no electric or hybrid vehicles can be flat towed. Their complex drivetrains, which often involve regenerative braking systems, are not designed for it. Turning the wheels while the vehicle is off can generate electricity and potentially damage the electric motors, battery, or control systems. There are very few exceptions, and you must check the owner’s manual with extreme care.

Popular Flat-Towable Vehicles

While lists change annually, some models have a long-standing reputation for being flat-towable. Always confirm with the owner’s manual for the specific model year you are considering.

• Jeep Wrangler: A perennial favourite among RVers for its ruggedness and because its 4WD system includes a neutral transfer case setting.
• Jeep Grand Cherokee: Certain 4WD models are also equipped with a flat-tow-friendly transfer case.
• Ford F-150 (4WD): Many 4×4 versions of this popular truck can be flat towed.
• Chevrolet Equinox/GMC Terrain: Certain model years of these SUVs were designed to be flat towed, but this has changed over time. Verification is crucial.
• Chevrolet Colorado/GMC Canyon (4WD): These mid-size trucks often have a neutral position on their transfer case.

Aftermarket Solutions for Incompatible Vehicles

What if you own a vehicle that the manufacturer says cannot be flat towed? There are a few aftermarket products that can make it possible, but they come with their own complexities and costs.

• Driveshaft Disconnect: For rear-wheel-drive vehicles, a driveshaft disconnect can be installed. This device is spliced into the driveshaft and has a lever or cable that allows you to manually disengage the driveshaft from the rear differential. This physically prevents the wheels from turning the transmission. It’s an effective but invasive and expensive modification.
• Transmission Lube Pump: For some front-wheel-drive automatic vehicles, an auxiliary transmission lubrication pump can be installed. This electric pump circulates fluid through the transmission while the car is being towed, protecting it from damage. This is also a complex and costly installation that requires wiring into the vehicle’s electrical system.

These solutions require professional installation and add another layer of maintenance and potential failure points. For most people, it’s far simpler and more reliable to choose a vehicle that is designed for flat towing from the factory.

The Essential Equipment for Safe Flat Towing

Once you’ve confirmed you have a compatible vehicle, the next step is to assemble the necessary equipment. A proper flat towing setup is a system of interconnected components that work together to ensure your toad follows your RV safely and legally. Skimping on any of these items is not an option.

1. The Base Plate

The base plate is the foundation of your entire towing system. It’s a vehicle-specific steel framework that bolts directly to the frame of your toad, providing a secure and stable connection point for the tow bar.

• Function: It’s custom-designed to fit your car’s make, model, and year. The installation is often complex, sometimes requiring the temporary removal of the front bumper fascia and drilling into the vehicle’s frame. Professional installation is highly recommended to ensure it’s done correctly and safely.
• Types: Base plates come in different styles. Some have visible attachment tabs that remain on the front of the car, while others have removable tabs for a cleaner, “hidden” look when you’re not towing.
• Leading Brands: Blue Ox, Roadmaster, and Demco are the leading manufacturers of base plates. It’s generally best to match the brand of your base plate to the brand of your tow bar for guaranteed compatibility.

2. The Tow Bar

The tow bar is the physical link between your RV and your toad. It connects to the RV’s hitch receiver on one end and to the car’s base plate on the other.

• Function: It allows the toad to follow the RV, pivoting at the hitch to navigate turns. Modern tow bars are self-aligning, meaning you can connect the car even if it’s not perfectly straight behind the RV; the arms will lock into place as you start to drive forward.
• Types:
  • RV-Mounted: This is the most common type. The tow bar is stored on the back of the motorhome, either by folding it up or covering it. To tow, you extend the arms and connect them to the base plate on the car.
  • Car-Mounted: This older style, sometimes called an A-frame tow bar, is mounted to the front of the toad. It’s generally less convenient as you have to attach and detach the entire bulky unit every time you tow.
• Key Features to Look For:

• • Weight Rating: Ensure the tow bar is rated to handle the curb weight of your toad.
  • Non-Binding Arms: High-end tow bars feature non-binding latches that make it much easier to disconnect the arms, even if the car and RV are parked at an angle or on uneven ground.
  • Safety Cables: Integrated safety cables are a convenient feature that saves you from having to manage separate cables.

• Leading Brands: Blue Ox (Avail, Ascent), Roadmaster (Nighthawk, Sterling), and Demco (Excali-Bar, Commander) are top choices.

3. The Supplemental Braking System

This is arguably the most critical safety component of your flat towing setup, and it’s legally required in most states and provinces. A supplemental braking system applies the brakes on your toad whenever you apply the brakes in your RV.

• Why It’s Essential: A motorhome’s brakes are designed to stop the weight of the RV itself, not the additional weight of a 1,500-3,000 kg car pushing from behind. Without a braking system, your stopping distance will be dangerously long, and you risk overheating and fading your RV’s brakes on long descents. It also helps prevent a catastrophic jackknife situation during a panic stop.
• Types of Braking Systems:

• • Proportional Systems: These are the most advanced and safest systems. They sense how hard you’re braking in the RV and apply a proportional amount of braking force to the toad. If you gently tap the brakes in the RV, the toad’s brakes are applied gently. If you slam on the brakes, the toad brakes hard. This results in smoother, more controlled braking and less wear on both vehicles’ brakes. Examples include the Air Force One (uses the RV’s air brakes) and the InvisiBrake (permanently installed).
  • Direct or On/Off Systems: These systems apply a pre-set amount of braking force to the toad whenever the RV’s brake lights are activated. They are less nuanced than proportional systems but are still effective.
  • Portable “Box-in-a-Seat” Systems: These are self-contained units that you place on the driver’s side floor of the toad, with an arm that presses on the brake pedal. They are easy to install and can be moved between different vehicles. Examples include the Blue Ox Patriot and the RViBrake. The downside is that you have to set them up and remove them every time you tow.
  • Permanently Installed Systems: These systems are installed under the hood or dash of the toad and are wired into its systems. They are much more convenient as there is nothing to set up or remove—you just flip a switch. Examples include the Roadmaster InvisiBrake and Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO.

4. Towing Lights and Wiring

When you’re towing, other drivers need to see your brake lights, turn signals, and tail lights on the rearmost vehicle—your toad. You need a wiring solution to transmit the electrical signals from the RV to the toad’s lights.

• Function: This ensures your towed vehicle’s lights operate in sync with the motorhome’s lights, making you legally compliant and visible to others on the road.
• Common Wiring Solutions:

• • Diode Wiring Kits: This is a popular and reliable method. Diodes are installed in the toad’s existing wiring harness. Diodes act like one-way electrical valves, allowing power from the RV to illuminate the car’s tail lights without letting that power feed back into the car’s electrical system, which could cause damage.
  • Bulb-and-Socket Kits: This involves drilling a small hole in the toad’s tail light housing and adding a separate, independent bulb and socket. This new bulb is wired directly to the RV, completely bypassing the car’s electrical system. It’s a simple solution but requires modifying the light housing.
  • Magnetic Tow Lights: These are temporary lights that you place on the trunk or roof of your toad, with a wire that runs along the outside of the vehicle up to the RV’s plug. This is a simple, no-modification solution, but it’s less secure and can potentially scratch the car’s paint. It’s best used for short-term or infrequent towing.

5. Safety Cables

Safety cables or chains are a non-negotiable backup system. In the unlikely event that the tow bar fails or the hitch comes undone, these cables will keep the toad attached to the RV, preventing it from becoming a runaway vehicle on the highway.

• Function: Two heavy-duty cables are crossed in an ‘X’ pattern between the RV and the toad’s base plate. The crossing pattern helps to cradle the tow bar if it drops and can prevent the toad from veering wildly into adjacent lanes.
• Requirements: Always use safety cables that are rated for the full weight of your towed vehicle. Most quality tow bars come with a set of appropriate safety cables.

6. Breakaway Switch

A breakaway switch is another critical safety device, often included with supplemental braking systems. It’s designed to automatically apply the toad’s brakes if it ever completely separates from the RV.

• Function: A small cable runs from the breakaway switch (installed on the front of the toad) to the RV’s frame. If the tow bar and the safety cables both fail and the car breaks free, this cable is pulled, activating the breakaway switch. The switch then triggers the supplemental braking system to apply the toad’s brakes at full force, bringing the runaway vehicle to a stop as quickly as possible.

Putting together this system represents a significant investment, often totalling between $3,000 and $7,000 or more, including professional installation. However, the safety, reliability, and peace of mind that come from a properly installed, high-quality system are priceless.

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Hook Up and Unhook Your Towed Vehicle

The first few times you connect and disconnect your toad, the process can feel intimidating. But with practice, it becomes a routine that takes only a few minutes. The key is to be methodical and follow a consistent checklist every single time. This guide provides a general procedure; your specific equipment may have slight variations, so always consult your product manuals.

The Connection Checklist: Hooking Up for the Road

Perform these steps on a level surface whenever possible. This makes aligning the tow bar and engaging the locks much easier.

1. Position the Vehicles: Park the RV and then drive the toad into position behind it, getting as close and as straight as you can. A distance of about one metre is usually good. Put the toad in park and engage the parking brake for now.
2. Prepare the Tow Bar: Uncover the tow bar on the back of the RV. Extend both tow bar arms and lay them on the ground, pointed toward the car.
3. Connect the Tow Bar to the Base Plate: Attach each tow bar arm to its corresponding tab on the toad’s base plate. You’ll insert a pin and secure it with a clip or linchpin. Double-check that both pins are fully seated and secured. The arms may not be fully extended or locked at this point; that’s normal.
4. Attach the Safety Cables: Connect the safety cables. Hook one end to the designated loops on the RV’s hitch receiver and the other end to the loops on the car’s base plate. Cross the cables underneath the tow bar in an “X” pattern. Make sure they have enough slack to allow for sharp turns but are not so loose that they will drag on the ground.
5. Connect the Electrical Umbilical Cord: Plug the main coiled electrical cable into the socket on the back of the RV and the corresponding socket on the front of the toad. This cable powers your toad’s lights and, for some systems, the braking unit. Give it a gentle tug to ensure it’s securely seated.
6. Connect the Braking System:
   • For a portable system: Place the unit on the driver’s floor, attach the claw to the brake pedal, and plug it into a 12V power source in the toad.
   • For a permanently installed system: Connect any necessary air lines or electrical links between the RV and the car. This is often a simple quick-connect hose or plug.
   • Connect the Breakaway Switch Cable: Attach the thin steel cable from the breakaway switch on the car to a solid part of the RV’s frame or hitch—not to the tow bar itself. This ensures it will only pull if there’s a complete separation.
7. Prepare the Towed Vehicle for Towing: This is the most critical step and is unique to your vehicle. Follow your owner’s manual precisely. A typical procedure for a 4WD vehicle might look like this:
   • Start the engine.
   • Shift the main transmission into Neutral (N).
   • Shift the 4WD transfer case into its Neutral (N) position. You may need to press a button or follow a specific sequence. You’ll often hear a clunk as it disengages.
   • Shift the main transmission back into Drive (D) for an automatic, or into gear for a manual. The vehicle should not move. This confirms the transfer case is truly in neutral.
   • Shift the main transmission back into the position specified by the manual for towing (this might be Park for some automatics or a low gear for some manuals).
   • Turn the engine off.
   • Turn the key to the “Accessory” position to unlock the steering wheel. The steering wheel must be unlocked for the wheels to turn.
   • Disengage the parking brake.
8. The Final Lock and Light Check:

• • Get back into the RV. Release the RV’s parking brake.
  • Slowly drive the RV forward. You will hear one or two loud “clunks” as the tow bar arms extend and lock into place.
  • Stop the RV, put it in park, and get out for a final visual inspection.
  • Verify that both tow bar arms are straight and the locking levers are engaged.
  • Have a partner stand behind the toad while you test the lights. Check the tail lights, brake lights, and both turn signals to ensure they are working correctly on the toad.

You are now ready to hit the road!

The Disconnection Checklist: Setting Up at Camp

The unhooking process is essentially the reverse, but non-binding tow bar arms are a huge help here, especially if you’re parked on uneven ground.

1. Park on Level Ground: Find a spot where the RV and toad are as straight and level as possible. Engage the parking brake on the RV.
2. Prepare the Toad for Driving: Before you disconnect anything, get the toad ready to be driven.
3. • Engage the toad’s parking brake.
   • Start the toad’s engine.
   • Shift the 4WD transfer case out of Neutral and back into 2H.
   • Shift the main transmission into Park or Neutral as needed.
   • Turn the engine off (or leave it running if you’re about to move it).
3. Disconnect the Systems:
4. • Disconnect the breakaway switch cable from the RV.
   • Disconnect the main electrical umbilical cord from both vehicles.
   • Disconnect the braking system link (air hose or electrical plug). If it’s a portable unit, remove it from the car.
4. Disconnect the Safety Cables: Unhook the safety cables from both the RV and the toad. Store them with the tow bar.
5. Release and Disconnect the Tow Bar Arms: This is where non-binding latches are a lifesaver. Release the lever on each tow bar arm. If the arms are under tension, you may need to gently nudge the car or RV, or use a tool to release the pressure. Once the tension is released, the arms should move freely. Unpin the arms from the base plate.
6. Store the Tow Bar: Fold the tow bar arms and secure them on the back of the RV according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Put the cover on to protect it from the elements.
7. Move the Toad: The towed vehicle is now free. Drive it away and park it. Do a quick walk-around of the front of the car to make sure no pins or clips were left behind.

Developing a consistent, step-by-step routine will prevent you from ever forgetting a crucial step, like releasing the parking brake on the toad or unlocking the steering wheel. A laminated checklist kept in your RV’s glove box is an invaluable tool, even for experienced towers.

Legal and Safety Considerations for Flat Towing

Towing a vehicle adds a significant amount of length, weight, and complexity to your driving experience. Adhering to legal requirements and following strict safety protocols is not just good practice—it’s essential for the well-being of you, your passengers, and everyone else on the road.

Legal Requirements: A Patchwork of Rules

Towing laws vary significantly by state and province, creating a patchwork of regulations that you need to be aware of, especially when crossing borders. The key areas of legislation are braking systems, safety chains, and lighting.

Supplemental Braking Systems

This is the most important and most commonly legislated aspect of towing. Most states and provinces have laws requiring a supplemental braking system for any towed vehicle or trailer over a certain weight. The weight threshold varies widely:

• Some jurisdictions, like British Columbia, require brakes on any trailer or toad weighing over 1,400 kg (approx. 3,000 lbs).
• Others have lower thresholds, like 1,500 lbs (approx. 680 kg).
• California requires brakes on any trailer coach or towed vehicle over 1,500 lbs.
• A few have higher limits, but the vast majority fall in the 1,500 to 3,000 lb range.

Given that almost every car weighs more than 3,000 lbs, you should consider a supplemental braking system a mandatory requirement no matter where you travel in North America. It is the single most important piece of safety equipment you will buy.

Safety Chains or Cables

The use of safety chains or cables is universally required. These provide a secondary connection in case of a primary tow bar or hitch failure. The law typically specifies that they must be strong enough to hold the full weight of the towed vehicle and should be crossed under the tow bar.

Lighting

Your towed vehicle is considered an extension of your motorhome. Therefore, its lights must operate in conjunction with the RV’s lights. This means when you turn, brake, or turn on your headlights, the corresponding lights on the back of the toad must illuminate. This is non-negotiable and a legal requirement everywhere.

Other Regulations

• Speed Limits: Many regions have lower speed limits for vehicles that are towing. Be aware of posted signs.
• Lane Restrictions: In some areas, vehicles with trailers or toads may be restricted from using the far-left lane on multi-lane highways.
• Signage: Some places may require a “Vehicle in Tow” sign on the back of the toad, though this is less common for flat-towed cars than for commercial operations.

Because laws can change and vary, it’s a good idea for full-time or frequent cross-country RVers to consult a towing laws guide, often published by RV clubs or magazines, which summarizes the requirements for each state and province.

Essential Pre-Trip Safety Checks

Before every single trip, no matter how short, perform a walk-around inspection.

1. Check Tire Pressure: Check the tire pressure on both the RV and the toad. Improperly inflated tires are a leading cause of blowouts.
2. Inspect Equipment: Look over your entire towing system. Check the tow bar for any cracks, bends, or loose bolts. Inspect the safety cables for frays. Check the electrical cord for any cuts or damage.
3. Confirm Connections: Physically tug on every connection point: the hitch receiver, the tow bar pins, the safety cable hooks, and the electrical plug. Make sure they are all secure.
4. Perform a Light Check: This is a two-person job. Have one person in the RV’s driver’s seat and the other standing behind the toad. Test the running lights, brake lights, and both left and right turn signals.

On-the-Road Safety Practices

Driving with a toad changes your vehicle’s dynamics. You need to adjust your driving style accordingly.

• No Backing Up: You cannot back up when flat towing. The front wheels of the toad will turn unpredictably, and you can quickly cause a jackknife situation that can damage the tow bar, the front of the car, or the back of the RV. If you find yourself in a situation where you need to reverse, you must stop and unhook the car first. Plan your fuel stops and pull-throughs accordingly.
• Wider Turns: Your total vehicle length is now much longer. You need to make wider turns to ensure the toad’s wheels clear curbs, signs, and other obstacles. Swing out further before initiating your turn, and use your mirrors to watch the toad’s path.
• Increased Following Distance: Your stopping distance is significantly increased, even with a good braking system. Double or even triple your normal following distance to give yourself ample time to react and brake smoothly.
• Regular Mirror Checks: Make a habit of checking your mirrors (including your rear-view camera) every 30-60 seconds. You want to constantly be aware that the toad is still there, tracking properly, and that its tires look good.
• Plan Your Stops: Stop every few hours to do a quick walk-around. Feel the toad’s wheel hubs to check for excessive heat, which could indicate a dragging brake or a failing wheel bearing. Check that all connections are still secure. This is also the time to follow any specific instructions from your car’s owner’s manual, such as starting the engine and running it for a few minutes to circulate fluids.

By integrating these legal and safety practices into your routine, you can ensure that your flat towing experience is not just convenient, but also exceptionally safe.

Maintaining Your Flat Towing System

Your flat towing setup is a mechanical system that requires regular inspection and maintenance to remain reliable and safe. Neglecting it can lead to component failure on the road, which can be both dangerous and expensive. A little preventative care goes a long way.

Tow Bar Maintenance

Your tow bar does a lot of work, absorbing road shock and managing thousands of kilograms of force.

• Regular Cleaning: After each long trip, especially if you’ve driven in rain or on dusty roads, clean your tow bar. Use soap and water to wash away dirt and grime that can work its way into the moving parts.
• Lubrication: Consult your tow bar’s manual for specific lubrication points. The arms, pivot points, and locking mechanisms often require a light application of silicone spray or lithium grease to keep them operating smoothly. Do not over-lubricate, as this can attract more dirt.
• Inspection: At least once a year, perform a detailed inspection.
• • Extend the arms fully and check for any bends or dents.
  • Examine all welds for signs of stress cracks.
  • Check all bolts and nuts to ensure they are tight. Your manual will have torque specifications.
  • Make sure the locking mechanisms engage and release properly.
• Manufacturer Service: Most major tow bar manufacturers (like Blue Ox and Roadmaster) offer factory service programs. You can often get your tow bar inspected, serviced, and rebuilt by their technicians at major RV rallies or by sending it to their factory. This is a great way to ensure it’s in top condition after several years of use.

Base Plate and Vehicle-Side Components

The parts on your toad are just as important.

• Base Plate Inspection: Since the base plate is bolted to the frame, you should periodically check that the bolts remain tight. You can do this when you’re doing an oil change or other under-vehicle maintenance.
• Wiring and Plugs: The electrical sockets on both the RV and the toad can become corroded. Periodically spray them with electrical contact cleaner to ensure a good connection. Check the wiring for any frays or damage, especially where it might rub against the chassis.
• Braking System:
• • Portable Systems: Keep the unit clean and inspect its power cord and pedal clamp for wear.
  • Permanent Systems: Check air lines for leaks and electrical wires for damage. Your system’s manual will have a specific maintenance schedule. For systems like the Air Force One, you may need to periodically drain moisture from the air tank on the toad.
  • Breakaway Switch: Test your breakaway switch annually. Most have a way to test the function without a full separation. Pulling the pin should activate the braking system. Make sure the cable isn’t frayed and the pin moves freely.

Towed Vehicle Maintenance

Flat towing puts some unique stresses on your car, even when done correctly.

• Tire Care: The toad’s tires are rolling for every kilometre you travel. This adds up quickly.
• • Rotate Regularly: Rotate your toad’s tires more frequently than you would with normal driving. Include the toad’s tires in your RV tire check routine, ensuring they are properly inflated before every trip.
  • Monitor Wear: Keep an eye on tire wear. Uneven wear could indicate an alignment problem on the toad.
• Fluid Checks: Even though the engine isn’t running, it’s good practice to stick to the car’s regular maintenance schedule for oil changes and other fluid checks. For vehicles that require you to run the engine at rest stops, this helps ensure the engine is in good health.
• Battery Health: Some braking systems and the need to keep the steering unlocked can put a small drain on the toad’s battery. If you frequently arrive at your destination with a dead battery, consider installing a battery charge line kit. This is a simple wire that runs from the RV’s alternator (through the 7-pin plug) to the toad’s battery, trickle-charging it as you drive.

By creating a simple maintenance log and incorporating these checks into your regular RV maintenance schedule, you can catch small problems before they become big ones and enjoy many years of trouble-free flat towing.

Final Thoughts

Making the decision to bring a vehicle along on your RV journeys opens up a world of flexibility and convenience, and understanding what is flat towing is a key part of that decision. This method, while requiring a significant initial investment in equipment and research, offers unmatched ease of use once you’re on the road. The freedom from managing a bulky dolly or trailer at a crowded campground is a benefit that seasoned RVers truly appreciate. The ability to unhook your car in minutes and head out for groceries, sightseeing, or a dinner in town can transform your travel experience.

The journey to successful flat towing is paved with careful planning. It begins with the crucial step of verifying that your chosen vehicle is approved for this use by the manufacturer, a step that cannot be skipped. From there, it’s about building a complete, integrated system of high-quality components: the foundational base plate, the robust tow bar, the essential supplemental braking system, and the correct wiring. Each part plays a vital role in creating a secure and legal connection between your motorhome and your toad. Learning the methodical process of hooking up and unhooking, and internalizing a strict safety checklist, will turn what seems complex into a simple, repeatable routine.

Ultimately, safe and successful flat towing is about respecting the physics and the responsibility involved. It’s about recognizing that you are piloting a long, heavy, articulated vehicle and driving with the heightened awareness that requires. By investing in the right equipment, committing to regular maintenance, and adopting a safety-first mindset on the road, you can confidently and safely explore all the destinations your RV adventure has to offer.